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Fitting

Worktops Fitting

Encore solid surface acrylic worktops need a competent solid surface fitter to install this product.  Installation kit and glues and gun may be needed as well as edging and tools to install.  Please check the installer is competent at fitting solid surface materials before you buy.  We do have a cutting and mitre service for Laminate worktops but not for solid.  For solid surface fitters email worktops@bushboard.co.uk for a fitter/installer of solid surface in your area.

Dimensions and planning when laminate worktop fitting

If your new worktop to replace an existing worktop that is a good fit and can be removed intact, this can be used as a template. If the layout is to be changed, accurately measure the new area, determining both length and depth using a steel tape measure. Since rooms are seldom perfectly square, carefully check all angles; if necessary make a cardboard template of the area. Transfer your new measurements onto the worktop, mark all cut lines and angles with a pencil, and double check dimensions before cutting.

Cutting and cut-outs when worktop fitting

The preferred method to perform any of the following operations would be to use a hand router. If you do not have access to a hand router then please follow the relevant section for the type of saw you have available. When using a router, always start at the post formed front edge, with the unwanted material on the right hand side. All cut-outs should be carried out with the worktops loosely laid onto the cabinets to ensure that the cut-outs / appliances to be installed do not interfere with the units underneath. To minimise possible chipping of the face laminate, apply masking tape over the line to be cut, and score the line prior to cutting. This applies to whichever of the following methods is used.

Hand sawing

With the worktop face up using a fine-toothed (4 per cm/10-12 per inch) saw, cut along the waste side of the line marked previously, starting at the post formed edge. Hold the saw at approx 70 degrees, until past the post formed edge, then lower the angle to 20 – 30 degrees for a straighter cut. This will help reduce chipping. Apply pressure on the downward stroke only to avoid lifting the laminate surface.

Power sawing

The cutting action of a power saw, be it a circular saw or jigsaw, is different to hand sawing, therefore cutting must take place with the worktop face down.
Hint: Make sure you get the right tools for the job: downward cutting blade for jigsaws, circular saw with laminate cutting blade not a rip saw. As a general rule - the more teeth the better.

Jointing when laminate worktop fitting

Before cutting and jointing worktops ensure the compatibility of the colour and surface texture, as slight variations may occur. Worktops can be jointed end-to-end or at right angles. These joints are best cut professionally, and jointed using connecting bolts. And at least one tube of Colourfill for laminate worktops joints is required for 600 and 665 deep with 2 tubes for 900 deep joints.  All cut edges must be sealed (see Sealing section).

Installation

The worktops should be fixed to the base units ensuring that these are level and securely fixed. Secure the worktops to the units using proprietary metal brackets, KD blocks or timber battens (not supplied).

Cut-outs

All cut-outs must have a minimum 6mm radius rounded corner to prevent stress cracking. Mark the position of the type of cut-out using the manufacturer’s template supplied, drill a hole in each corner of the template and cut, using your preferred cutting method, following the previous instructions. Do not allow the saw to run over the radius formed in the corners as stress cracking may appear once the appliance has been installed. All types of cut-outs for sink, tap hole or hob must be adequately sealed against both moisture ingress and heat.

 See also hints and tips